The London Showrooms offers a unique experience for emerging British fashion designers to broadcast their collections to the International market. The Showrooms occupy the first week of October and are located in arguably London’s biggest rival in the fashion Industry, Paris. The event is a strategic way for the British Fashion Council to experiment with and support the rookie designers and maintain the worldwide trade stronghold.

After the recent successes of The London Fashion Week spring/summer ‘10 in September, The London showrooms is the next big event in the British fashion calender.

Whilst the Fashion Week displays the latest masterpieces of the royalty of British fashion, the Showrooms allows an opportunity to witness up and coming designers trying to break into the tough field of fashion design. It is these designers at the Showrooms who will someday hope to earn the right to display their works at the Fashion Week. These designers are the future of British Fashion.

The British Fashion Council, a non-profit trade group for British designers, established the London Showrooms out of a necessity to continue the popularity and prosperity of the biggest names in British fashion design. Designers such as House of Holland and Todd Lynn will one day, with the support of the fashion council, maintain and uphold the high standards set by Britain’s present design aristocracy.

The likes of Vivienne Westwood and Burberry of course spring to mind after another set of outstanding collections at the Fashion Week last month.

House of Holland, by designer Henry Holland, is an interesting new talent on the scene. As well as being a close friend to model Agyness Deyn, Holland has gained exposure from his collection of 80’s, bold print T-shirts incorporating festive, rhyming catchphrases, such as ‘Get your freak on, Giles Deacon’ and ‘I’ll tell you who’s boss, Kate Moss’.

House of Holland’s collection for the spring/summer season presents a combination of his boho designs with aspects of punk intertwined with a modern sophistication and preppy nature. This collaboration is striking and alluring and has already gained the designer an exclusive and unique style.

One example of this collection is the definitive male preppy look (tight formal shorts and shirt with sweater tied loosely around the neck) updated with vibrant colour and daringly short, upturned sleeves. Another example of the provocative collection is the seemingly standard business-woman outfit (tight skirt with well fitted, double breasted blazer) in a warm natural tone complete with a contrasting, uneven polka-square design. The thin lapels and pulled up sleeves again express Holland’s affinity with the 80’s era.

The latest collection by Canadian-born designer Erdem showcased an appreciation for the chic and hippy look. His summery dresses and playsuits, both formal and informal, are assembled with very detailed floral prints. The enchanting designs paired up with the seductive shapes and silhouettes give Erdem a sophisticated and flirtatious style, perfect for the sunny seasons.

The latest collection from designer Todd Lynn differs a great deal from the previous designers somewhat. His designs for woman express a fearless nature with a heart for rock’n'roll. There is also a strong feeling of heavenly and otherworldly inspirations.

His use of plain colours; whites and blacks, with extra detailing in both make up and clothing design suggests a blending of pure and unpure, good and evil or angelic vs demonic. One particular striking design is the tight silhouetted white suit with robe-like tight sarong around the waist, reminiscent of a toga, coupled with devilish, black horned shoulder pads and over exaggerated black eye shadow. Again, a very unique style has been formed here.

The main aim of the London Showrooms is to offer international audiences a chance to view the latest collections by up and coming designers from Britain and to strengthen trade and commerce between countries. The British Fashion Council seek to tutor the trainee designers and offer them as much aid as possible to break through into the evermore challenging field of fashion design.

However, most importantly for all concerned, the London Showrooms is a way of making a statement to the international market that Britain holds the highest competition and is seeking challengers.

BLK1 Article: JULIAN CHAUNDY

Images and Article: © BLK1 2008-2009. All Rights Reserved.

The home of London Fashion Week

Somerset House was selected as the location to commemorate 25 years of Britsh fashion, replacing the equally impressive but rather exhausted Natural History Museum. Once a records building used by the British Government to store countless data, Somerset House is a magnificent, neo-classical structure sitting provocatively on Elizabeth Embankment facing southwards across the river amidst equally impressive and iconic architecture, both contemporary and modern, such as Big Ben and the unmismistakable, oversized, revolving London Eye. The strong columns supporting the commanding structure of Somerset House, not dissimilar to those on the Parthanon, echo the idea of Britain: the impenetrable fortress.

The London fashion week preceeds Milan and follows New York and is as highly an anticipated event worldwide as the Oscars. It offers the world a chance to witness the latest British designers trying to break into the evermore competitive field of fashion design and allows an alluring possibility of witnessing the latest collections of British fashion royalty such as Vivienne Westwood and Burberry. Britain’s adversaries to the likes of DKNY and Versace.

Matthew Williamson gave a great deal of credit to artist Jim Lambie for inspiring him to go for graphic abstract patterns on synthetic material. His collection for the spring/summer ‘10 range retained his bohemian and hippy image which has won him many plaudits in the past. However, this time he was able to infuse a greater deal of elegance with heavier detail on body conscious sillohuettes. This was most notable in his navy blue/black trouser suit which was seen as a must have piece by legendary British model Twiggy.

Similar to Williamson, Vivienne Westwood took inspiration from art, though her motivation stemmed from religious art as opposed to the abstract creations of Lambie. Westwood is well known for her sympathy with the bohemian and punk era of 80s Britain. Her shows always display her boldness and provocative nature and this seasons Fashion Week was no exception. Westwood included a form of the trouser suit in her red label collection as well. The pink outfit was fitted tightly around the torso with a loose, boot cut fit for the trousers. A plain grey t-shirt advertising the designer’s name was worn under the suit to contrast with the formality.

Little hints of excentricity or a touch of the retro was a recurring theme throughout the Vivienne Westwood show. Another prime example of this was the pairing of a custom fit navy striped blazer accompanying a sarong style red polkadot skirt. Polkadot was exploited by the designer several more times, including a summery short blue dress modelled by Daisy Lowe,whose unconventional ’stomping’ catwalk style, won that particular fashionista yet more headlines. However, the show’s focal point would have to be the the short, grunge style shiny dress sported by a gamin-like model smoking a cigarette. The rebellious decision to break the legislated smoking ban will become as acclaimed as her designs for the Sex Pistols or her constantly voiced decision to go knicker-less to events.

Away from the catwalk shows, Somerset House was seperated into blocks, each housing different exhibtions from designers. Here, it was possible to converse first hand with some of the smaller scale designers and question the meassages and meanings behind their collections. Due to them not being the centre of attention and having to compete for exposure with the rest, designers went to huge lengths to broadcast their label. Everything from free champagne to live DJ sets by artists such as Massive Attack.

Very popular amongst the press, Alexandra Soveral, an organic aromatherapy beautician, offered an opportunity for willing volunteers to create their own perfume from the large collection of essential oils on offer, with a chance of winning £1000 worth of perfume. Soveral was impressed by the hundreds of interested participants choosing to compete.

Gabrielle Mille designs for Oxfam

Oxfam’s exhibition was also deemed original and popular, with their imaginative scheme to design new outfits from the old clothing donated to the many stores worldwide. Such an inventive approach to fashion design should surely pay off due to the idea that fashion is cyclic and that out of date attire will get another chance somewhere down the line, albeit with a helpful modernising boost. In strong contrast to this, Liberty of London used the iconic status of Legendary musician Ronnie Wood, along with his creative artistry, to concoct a unique and stunning collection of clothing and accesories. The evocative signature line was brimming in vibrant colours and patterns set on plain, dark material. Again, another impressive exhibit.

It was clear to see from the many exhibtions exactly which trends were “in” at present. The use of foil and sequins on the scarfs and shawls designed by Jane Carr ( cotton for the more everday look, with satin representing a higher degree of formality), were partnered with cascading designs to form the “decay of decadence”. The use of sequins was continued in the collection of accesories designer, Angel Jackson. However, most attention was drawn by the electric and irredescent colours sprayed onto the feathers adorning the large collection of bags. A large sculpture of a black panther, the label’s distinctive logo, adorned with a feather bag atop its head like a fabulous headpiece was a clever prop and another successful attempt to draw attention. The feathers were locally collected and treated in Bali, where the accesories are fabricated, reassuringly, away from the sweatshops. These avian influenced bags have proved popular among British fashionistas from Alexa Chung to Pixie Geldof.

The feather was symbolically used by surfboard designers Swami’s. Their collection of boards, surfing paraphenalia and apparel delved deeply into hidden meanings from the designers personal experience. The delicate feathers inprinted on the boards typified the fragility of the surfer whilst riding a wave. The plumage used, had connotations of American Indian headress. Continuing their idea of otherworldliness, the designers incorporated delicate cloth under the fiberglass of the board which was linked to the image of buddist monks at the foothills of the himalayas.

Heading back to the catwalk, it would be Burberry who would finish off this year’s London Fashion Week. A recent resurgence has seen Burberry regain its place high up on the podium of definitive British fashion. A magnificent turn out for the event included a large proportion of celebrities both British and international. The new face of Burberry, Emma Watson, was joined by Liv Tyler, Victoria Beckham and Mary-Kate Olsen. Beckham, the singer turned devotee to high fashion declared that in her eyes “Burberry is the epytomy of British fashion”.

What was evident from the collection for Burberry Prorsum was that designer Christopher Bailey had been looking to offer the audience a true interpretation of the brand, but with subtle twists. The heritage was certainly maintained. The iconic cheque pattern was present in the show along with the trench coats. However, the compilation of clothing was also caressed with gentle touches of modernity, youthfulness and elements of sexiness as well, to update and continue the renaissance. Fine examples of this included an all-in-one short and fitted beige trench coat fused with a frilly dress, offering a greater proportion of exposure to the limbs and accentuating the figure. This followed a similarly styled trench, this time less summery and more formal in shape. The texture appears soft and satin like with a shiny pastel fusia for colour. The outfit has a longer finish than the other, closer to the knee and is structured with a broader definition on the shoulder, due to exaggerated padding – a popular trend at present.

The London fashion Week gives a taster of what’s to be expected in all high street stores for next year’s spring and summer. It also helps to offer assurance and belief that the added layers forced on by cooler days will not last forever and that all too soon, the festival season will be upon us again. The fashion week portrays an a creative combination of culture and sophistication balanced out with youthful modernity.It exposes a fusion of class and protention with retro bohemianism. However, the underlining duty of the prestigious event is to assure all that British fashion is here to stay.

BLK1 Article: JULIAN CHAUNDY

Article: © BLK1 2008-2009. All Rights Reserved.